On the one hand, it’s hard to believe a country quaffer hailing from the hot south of France could be this fresh and lithe, when young reds from that region often show a rugged or feral character in their youth. On the other hand, the man who made this rouge not only is an under-the-radar favorite among KLWM staff but also was named winemaker of the year by multiple French magazines in recent years. So it follows that such a talented vigneron is able to find finesse where many others find power.
Sylvain Fadat of Domaine d’Aupilhac does so by blending organically grown Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, Syrah, and a splash of Alicante Bouchet, and aging half the blend in foudre and the other half in stainless steel for six months. He uses a light vinification and these aging vessels to preserve fresh, juicy fruit characteristics without extracting too much tannic structure. The result is simultaneously elegant and full of the aromas and flavors we associate with this slice of France, from black olives and stones to the famous garrigue of the south.
—Tom Wolf